Mickey Mantle's Restaurant
New York Times - Diner's Journal
Published: Friday, March 4, 1988
By Bryan Miller

''I DON'T believe it... there he is!'' gasped the beefy, assiduously coiffed businessman as he walked toward the bar, gawking, open jawed, like a 10-year-old watching a flying saucer approach his bedroom.

The ''he'' was old No. 7, the booming Bronx Bomber himself, Mickey Mantle, who was standing at the bar wearing a rose-colored crew-neck sweater and tan pants, bantering with a pair of lunchtime customers.

The legendary New York Yankee slugger has come a long way, from the batter's box to battered chicken, so to speak, as a partner in a new sports bar and restaurant on Central Park South that bears his name.

He is under contractual obligation to hang out there from time to time, yet he is said to be having such a good time that he actually shows up often.

Mickey Mantle's is as much a baseball shrine as a dining spot.

The contemporary blond wood and beige space is loaded with sports memorabilia, including the uniforms of Mantle, Babe Ruth and Joe DiMaggio, autographed photos, paintings, posters... even nonstop videos replaying old World Series footage interspersed with worshipful interviews with the Mick.

The service staff, wearing floppy baseball shirts, is as eager and enthusiastic as a bat boy on opening day.

The predominantly male hero worshipers that filled the place on a recent afternoon could choose from appetizers that included a nicely seasoned veal and chicken sausage with red cabbage ($6), garlicky sauteed shiitake mushroom ($8), followed by a rather cloying chicken salad drenched in smoky barbecue sauce ($12) and a juicy rare-grilled hamburger with soggy french fries ($10 at lunch, $13 at dinner).

The ''Spring Training Special'' of the day was a deftly grilled chicken breast paired with a tame tomato salsa ($12).

Dinner entrees... chicken-fried steak with cream gravy, lamb chops, pecan-breaded chicken run in the $14 to $25 range.

The wine list has a good selection in all prices.

Mickey Mantle's, 42 Central Park South, is open daily from noon to 2 A.M.

Telephone number is 688-7777

American Express, Visa and Mastercard accepted.